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CitySaheli talked to Dr. Kavita Mariwalla, a dermatologist who graduated from the Yale school of Medicine, about a cosmetic problem faced by many South Asian women – dark under eye circles. “The most common question I receive from South Asian women is how to get rid of the dark circles under the eyes,” said Mariwalla. Unfortunately, the truth is, it’s not easy.
To help CitySaheli readers, Mariwalla answered some of important questions, provided useful information and offered some great tips on conquering this problem.
Why are dark circles in the eye area a significant problem for South Asian women?
Dark circles below the eyes in South Asian women are considered normal. In every person, regardless of skin color, under-eye skin is some of the thinnest on the entire human body. If you look closely, almost everyone has a slightly darker hue below the eyes as compared to the rest of the face. A purplish-blue hue is seen through this thin skin because there is a very rich blood supply that sits right underneath it. In South Asian skin this purplish hue looks brown. In addition, as we age, the skin becomes thinner and some of the blood from the capillaries leaks which leaves a deposit of brown pigment from the hemoglobin in blood (otherwise known as iron).
There are other factors that can exacerbate the appearance of the darkness in the area. One of these is allergies and asthma. Medically, we refer to these circles as “allergic shiners.” If the eyes are rubbed frequently, the appearance of the dark circles worsens. The key thing is to go to an allergist to keep the underlying cause under control. Similarly, eczema can cause worsening of the dark circles, so it is important to see a dermatologist to make sure it is treated.
Even if you do not have allergies or eczema, dry skin alone can make the under-eye area appear worse. A good eye cream or daily moisturizer to the area will keep the skin plump and brighter.
Many women do not simply have brown circles however. They also have hollowness underneath the eyes, which can encompass the entire lower lid area or the crease between the cheek and eye otherwise known as a “tear trough deformity.” While the name implies something abnormal, the hollowness is actually a natural product of aging. As we age, the orbital fat pads start to move down with the direction of gravity. The result is hollowness, which then makes the brown appear even darker due to the shadowing that occurs.
Lastly, brown circles can be caused by iron deficiency anemia, lack of sleep and eye strain (looking at a computer all day or having underpowered glasses or contact lenses).
How do you remove the appearance of dark circles in the eye area?
So now that you know all of the causes, how do you fix it? The truth is most of the creams out there that claim to improve the appearance of dark circles do not truly work. Your options are to find a good moisturizer that you like and use it daily. This will hydrate and plump the skin. For brown skin, a make-up concealer in the color range of pink-peach-orange will cover brown the best and help camouflage the dark areas. Brands such as Mac, YSL and Georgio Armani make this color range of concealer specifically for use in the under-eye area.
Lastly, once you’ve gotten sleep, fixed your glasses and made sure your allergies are under control, the last and most aggressive option is for cosmetic filler in the area. Hyaluronic acid fillers such as Juvederm and Restylane can be used to fill the tear trough and lift the skin off the vascular bed below. This extra cushion improves the appearance of the hollows, removes the shadowing that occurs and decreases the purple-brown hue. This procedure is performed by a board certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon. However, note that not all physicians have experience with placing this product under the eye area so when consulting with a doctor (and yes, only trust a doctor in the above two categories to perform this for you) make sure you ask if they have specifically placed filler in this area before. The results last 4 – 5 months and will be longer with successive treatments. The risk is some bruising which can temporarily worsen the dark circles but most people find that it is worth it. The average cost is about $600-$700 a treatment depending on where you live.
Dr. Mariwalla has contributed in various publications including New York magazine.
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